WINNER OF "BEST MTB CLOTHING" AT THE TOTAL WOMEN'S CYCLING AWARDS 2017

The "Attack" Position

March 18, 2015

Basic Instinct

The attack position is probably the most important riding technique you can have in your skills set and luckily it is a fairly easy one to develop. It is clichéd I know, but in this case the attack position really is your best means of defence.

 

Nearly every time I go out riding I see people out on the trails who spend almost the entire ride sitting down on their saddle, even over technical features and when approaching features that they are unsure of. I recently asked one of these riders why they stayed seated and the reply was that they felt safer seated when the trail was rough. I asked them to try riding in the attack position and showed them how. I bumped into them again later and they were grinning from ear to ear and couldn’t wait to tell me how much easier it had made the rest of their ride after they started using the attack position. What you want to develop is to instinctively adopt the attack position at the appropriate points.

 A classic “attack” position.

 

What’s in a name?

The attack position is known by at least 3 additional titles! If you have had any coaching from a British/Scottish cycling trained coach, or ride with people who have, you may well hear it referred to as the “ready” position. In a later article you will also see me refer to it as position “2” and position “B”. What it is called is unimportant however, it is how it will improve you riding that really counts.

 

Being able to be stationary without putting a foot down whilst out on your local trails, or even on the roads going to your local trails, lets you ride with more flow, confidence and control. There are loads of examples of when track standing can or should be used on the mountain bike, way more than when road biking or even cycling on a track, where the technique originated.

 

Attack, Attack, Attack

When should you use this technique? Simple answer is almost every time that you are not pedalling. If you are approaching a rough part of the trail where you don’t need to pedal – attack position. Before any non-seated manoeuvre – attack position. Unsure where the trail is about to go – attack position. Although I much prefer the term “attack position” over “ready position” as I think it is cooler and sums up how most of us want to ride, the term “ready” is a good one as it gives and clue as to when to use the technique. Basically it is the position that allows you to be “ready” to employ any of the other skills you will need on the trail and for anything else that you are about to encounter on the trail.

 

Assume the position

So here it is in a nut shell.

  • Get you bum off the saddle
  • Look forward and well ahead
  • Long legs but with knees slightly bent
  • Drop your heels
  • Bend your elbows (it’s sooooo enduro)
  • Try to line your belly button up on the bottom bracket (the bit your cranks pass through)
  • Try to have a more or less level back (don’t worry if it’s not totally flat
  • Drop your shoulders

 

Bum, bum bum, bum bum

It is important to get your bum off the saddle as it give you better control of the bike. This is mainly because it allows the bike to move around underneath you largely without it transmitting this movement into your body. Why is this good? Simple, you don’t get shaken up or spat off when it get rough. You control the bike, not the other way round. We’ll cover more on this in a future article on “Cone of Movement”, but for now just picture a drawing pin stuck, point up, to your saddle whenever the trail gets rough or you need to be ready for anything and keep that bum up.

 

Heads Up

If my clients were to be polled on the advice I give them most, it would undoubtedly be to keep their heads up and look forward. The attack position is no exception to this. It i9s the usual storey that it allow you to read the trail better etc, but even more than this is effects your centre of gravity on the bike and the way the bike reacts to obstacles on the trail and more importantly, what happens to your body when your bike encounters these obstacles.

 

Mummy long legs

The most effective suspension on any mountain bike is your legs! You can have a hardtail or a 170mm enduro rig, but it holds true for both. With your saddle dropped it will provide most riders on correctly sized bikes with at least 300mm of travel – awesome isn’t it? Like all suspension you want to set it up with a little bit of sag, in this case your knees being a little bit bent. You also want to get the most from this natural suspension, so hence the long legs; this will give you your optimal range of movement.

 

No stilettos on the trail

That’s right I don’t want to see any high heels. Drop those heels to improve your position. Dropping the heels has loads of benefits, but please remember that if you are riding flats then use a shoe with sticky rubber or a good waffle sole as you don’t want shins as scarred as mine. By dropping your heel you will improve your grip on the pedal, but more importantly you reduce the risk of your foot being bounced off the pedal and forwards if you bike encounters a root, rock or stray badger. In addition dropping your heel lowers your centre of gravity, which in turn gives you greater control and stability.

Note the position of the rider’s elbows and head.

 

It's sooooo enduro

Look at almost any photo of a top rider shredding the gnar on-line and in magazines and you will notice that they all have their elbows bent and out. The reasons are similar to those mentioned above for your legs with bent knees, but also again is allows the bike to move largely independently from your torso. But why elbows out and not back? You are stronger and therefore have more control with your elbows in this position. If you don’t believe me try a simple experiment. See how many proper press-ups you can manage with your elbows bending out to the side, now give yourself a minute or two’s rest, then try to do the same number of press-ups “marine style” i.e. with your elbows tucked in and bending parallel with your torso. For most of you the former way will be easier and you will achieve considerably more reps.

 

Belly button dancer

We are beginning to get into the fine tuning of the technique now. If you are even only able to employ the tips I’ve given you above it will greatly help your riding and confidence on the trail. However, if you really want to rip those trails then read on.

Getting your hips a bit further back than you may feel is normal will help you with your balance in this position and keep that all important centre of gravity over the correct part of the bike. You’ll tire less easily in this position too as you will be engaging your gluteus maximus muscles (yes recurring theme here I know, it’s your bum again). Your glutes are a massively powerful set of muscles so rather than just carry them around for show let’s make them work for you. The way to check if you are more or less in the correct position is that your belly button should be more or less over the top of your bottom bracket.

 

Flat back attack

The fine tuning continues with this point and it leads on from the immediately preceding point. By keeping your back flat and more or less level (within the realms of what is comfortable for you) will ensure that your hips remain back and that your belly bottom over the bottom bracket. Don’t get your back straight by only lowering your shoulders try to bend forwards from your pelvis but engage those abs to create a straightish line from the base of your neck right to the end of your coccyx (tail bone).

The rider’s belly button is over the bottom bracket, her heals are low, her back flat and she’s looking forward - perfect.

 

Shoulder to boulder

Try to drop your shoulders if you can. You should find this happens when you get your hips and back position right anyway, but many riders exhibit there nervousness on the bike through ridged and tense shoulders. Try to relax them and let them drop. This allows you to absorb more movement more quickly; it also gives a great range of movement. If your shoulders are relaxed and down it should also allow your head to be in the correct position.

 

The finishing touch

So you’ve nailed the position and take it out on the trail ready to ride your bike like you stole it, but let me give you one final saying that I want you to repeat to yourself until a little voice in your head shouts back “I am”. That saying is “heavy feet, light hands”. This is one of the best pieces of advice I was given and i make no apology for passing it on. Having the best attack position in the world will count for nothing if you have a death grip on your handlebars, most of your weight on your arms and your feet are floating. To be honest that should be almost impossible anyway if you have all the above points in place, but rather than try to remember if you’ve done everything I’ve suggested as you are doing warp speed down that piece of track you’ve always wanted to dominate, just remember heavy feet, light hands and you should more or less revert to the correct position

  

By Jim Barron

Chief Instructor & Coach

Dirt Vixens

 



Size Guide

Women's Tops

UK USA Bust Hip Length (front)
8 4 87-90cm 96-99cm 53cm
10 6 91-94cm 100-103cm 54.5cm
12 8 95-98cm 104-107cm 56cm
14 10 99-102cm 108-111cm 57.5cm
16 12 103-106cm 112-115cm 59cm
18 14 107-112cm 116-121cm 61.5cm
20 16 113-119cm 122-128cm 65cm
 

Women's Shorts

UK USA Waist Hip Length (inside)
6 2 70-73cm 84-88cm 34cm
8 4 74-77cm 89-93cm 35cm
10 6 78-81cm 94-98cm 36cm
12 8 82-85cm 99-103cm 37cm
14 10 86-89cm 104-108cm 38cm
16 12 90-93cm 109-115cm 39cm
18 14 94-97cm 116-122cm 40cm
20 16 98-101cm 123-129cm 41cm
 

Men's Tops

Chest Length (front)
X-Small 87-91cm 55cm
Small 92-95cm 56.5cm
Medium 96-99cm 58cm
Large 100-109cm 59.5cm
X-Large 110-119cm 61cm
XX-Large 120-127cm 64.5cm
XXX-Large 128-135cm 66cm


Men's Shorts

 Waist Hip Length (outside)
28" 69-73cm 84-88cm 60.5cm
30" 74-78cm 89-93cm 61.5cm
32" 79-83cm 94-98cm 63.5cm
34" 84-88cm 99-103cm 64.5cm
36" 89-93cm 104-108cm 65.5cm
38" 94-98cm 109-113cm 66.5cm
40" 99-103cm 114-118cm 67.5cm